The Evolution of Green Bezels: Rolex Submariner’s Most Coveted Variants
For watch enthusiasts and collectors alike, few timepieces command as much attention as the Rolex Submariner with a green bezel. What started as a commemorative edition has evolved into some of the most sought-after Rolex models in the world. From the pioneering “Kermit” to the muscular “Hulk” and the refined “Starbucks,” these green-bezeled Submariners represent not just the evolution of a watch, but the changing face of luxury timepieces themselves.
The Birth of the Green Bezels: The “Kermit” (Ref. 16610LV)
The story of the green Submariner begins in 2003, a significant year for Rolex as it marked the 50th anniversary of their iconic dive watch. Rolex introduced the Submariner Date reference 16610LV to commemorate this milestone, which quickly earned the nickname “Kermit” from enthusiasts due to its distinctive green bezel.
The Kermit represented something truly unique in Rolex’s typically conservative design approach. While maintaining the classic black dial that Submariner fans knew and loved, Rolex paired it with an aluminum bezel insert in a vibrant green hue – Rolex’s signature color. This was a bold move for a brand known for its incremental changes.
History of the Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit”
In 2003, Rolex introduced the Submariner Date 16610LV as a tribute to 50 years of the Submariner’s legacy. Unlike the traditional black Submariner, the 16610LV featured a vibrant green aluminum bezel insert and a Maxi dial with larger hour markers for enhanced legibility. This bold new design quickly caught the attention of collectors and earned the affectionate nickname “Kermit,” after the famous green Muppet character.
What is the Rolex “Flat 4” Bezel?
The term “Flat 4” refers to a distinct design feature found on the earliest versions of the Kermit Submariner. On the bezel, the number “40” shows a flat-topped 4, unlike the more common pointed or closed 4 seen on later models. This small but crucial typographic detail was only present on models produced during 2003 and early 2005, making the Flat 4 bezel extremely rare and highly desirable among serious Rolex collectors.
Why is the Kermit Flat 4 So Valuable?
There are several reasons why the Rolex Submariner 16610LV Flat 4 has become a prized collector’s piece:
Historical Significance: It marks the 50th anniversary of the Submariner line.
Limited Production: The Flat 4 bezel was only used during the first phase of production, before Rolex transitioned to a different bezel font.
Unique Aesthetic: The Flat 4 bezel gives the watch a distinctive vintage charm that sets it apart from later Kermit models.
Investment Potential: Original examples with an unpolished case, correct Flat 4 bezel, and full box and papers have seen significant appreciation in the collector’s market.
Key Features of the Kermit:
- 40mm stainless steel case
- Black “Maxi dial” with larger hour markers
- Green aluminum bezel insert
- Caliber 3135 movement
- Produced from 2003 to 2010
Initially, the Kermit received mixed reactions from purists accustomed to the classic black-on-black Submariner aesthetic. However, this hesitation quickly transformed into enthusiasm as collectors recognized the significance of this anniversary model. Today, the Kermit is highly coveted, with prices on the secondary market reflecting its collectible status.
The Evolution Continues: The “Hulk” (Ref. 116610LV)
In 2010, Rolex discontinued the Kermit and introduced its successor, the reference 116610LV. This new model took the green theme even further by pairing the green bezel with a matching green dial. The watch’s more muscular appearance – thanks to a redesigned case with thicker lugs and crown guards – combined with its all-green presence, naturally led collectors to nickname it the “Hulk.”
The Hulk represented Rolex’s adoption of several modern improvements across its lineup, making it technologically superior to its predecessor in several ways.
Key Features of the Hulk:
- 40mm stainless steel case with broader “Super Case” design
- Green sunburst dial with a distinctive color-shifting quality
- Green Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert
- Improved luminescence with Chromalight
- Caliber 3135 movement
- Produced from 2010 to 2020
The ceramic bezel was perhaps the most significant upgrade, offering superior scratch and fade resistance compared to the aluminum bezel of the Kermit. The sunburst green dial created a captivating effect, changing appearance depending on lighting conditions – from deep forest green to a bright, almost electric hue.
The Latest Iteration: The “Starbucks” (Ref. 126610LV)
In 2020, Rolex surprised the watch world again by discontinuing the beloved Hulk and introducing a new green Submariner as part of a comprehensive update to the Submariner line. The reference 126610LV returned to the Kermit’s black dial and green bezel combination, but with modern refinements that established it as distinctly its own model.
Fans quickly dubbed this latest iteration the “Starbucks,” referencing the coffee chain’s black and green color scheme. Some also call it the “Cermit” (Ceramic Kermit) or “New Kermit.”
Key Features of the Starbucks:
- 41mm stainless steel case with refined proportions
- Black dial with larger hour markers
- Green Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert
- Upgraded bracelet with Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension system
- New-generation Caliber 3235 movement with 70-hour power reserve
- Introduced in 2020 and still in current production
The Starbucks represents Rolex’s latest thinking in dive watch design, combining heritage elements with cutting-edge watchmaking. The slightly larger 41mm case size provides better proportions, while the new-generation movement offers significant improvements in precision, power reserve, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
Collector Appeal and Investment Potential
The green Submariner variants have demonstrated remarkable appreciation in value over the years, particularly for discontinued models:
Kermit (16610LV):
- Original retail price in 2003: Approximately €3.950
- Current market value: €12.950 – €16.950 depending on condition and bezel
- Limited production run of 7 years has contributed to its collectibility
Hulk (116610LV):
- Original retail price in 2010: Approximately €7.950
- Market value at discontinuation (2020): €19.950 – €23.950
- Current market value: €17,950 – €21.950
- Ten-year production run with distinctive all-green styling
Starbucks (126610LV):
- Current retail price: €11.350
- Current market value: €13.500 – €14.950
- Significant premium over retail reflects high demand and limited availability
The premium these watches command on the secondary market underscores their appeal to collectors. The green bezel Submariners represent something increasingly valuable in today’s watch market: genuine distinctiveness combined with the reliability and prestige of the Rolex brand.
Telling Them Apart: A Quick Identification Guide
For the uninitiated, distinguishing between these models can be challenging. Here’s a quick reference guide:
- Kermit (16610LV): Black dial, aluminum green bezel, thinner case design
- Hulk (116610LV): Green sunburst dial, ceramic green bezel, broader case design
- Starbucks (126610LV): Black dial, ceramic green bezel, 41mm case, slimmer lugs
The dial color is the most immediate visual differentiator between the Hulk and the other two models. Between the Kermit and Starbucks, the most noticeable differences are the bezel material (aluminum vs. ceramic) and case proportions.
Buying Considerations
If you’re considering adding one of these green-bezeled beauties to your collection, here are some key considerations:
Authenticity
The popularity of these models has unfortunately led to an increase in counterfeits. Always purchase from authorized dealers or reputable secondary market sources with proper authentication processes. Key authenticity indicators include:
- The quality of the green bezel (particularly the color consistency)
- Precise engravings on the rehaut (inner rim)
- Correct serial and reference numbers
- Proper bracelet quality and clasp function
- The laser-etched crown in its sapphire glass
- A movement check by a certified watchmaker
Condition
For older models like the Kermit, condition becomes increasingly important. The aluminum bezel is prone to fading and scratching over time, which can significantly affect value. Some collectors specifically seek “faded” Kermit bezels, while others prefer those that have retained their original vibrant green.
Box and Papers
Complete sets with original box, papers, warranty card, and accessories command significant premiums, especially for discontinued models. A Kermit or Hulk with full documentation can be worth thousands more than one without papers.
Conclusion: Which Green Submariner Is Right for You?
Each green Submariner variant offers its own unique appeal:
- The Kermit appeals to vintage enthusiasts and those who appreciate its historical significance as the first green Submariner and a 50th anniversary piece.
- The Hulk attracts those who want maximum visual impact and distinctiveness, with its all-green presentation making a bold statement on the wrist.
- The Starbucks offers the perfect balance of heritage aesthetics and modern technology, with improved proportions and the latest Rolex innovations.
Whichever model speaks to you, the green Submariner represents more than just a watch – it’s a statement about Rolex’s willingness to experiment with color while maintaining the core DNA that has made the Submariner a legend. From tentative experimentation with the Kermit to the confident assertion of the Hulk and the refined maturity of the Starbucks, these watches tell the story of Rolex’s own evolution as a brand.
